Bought this recently but noticed that the ingredients printed on the tube is different form that on the website, so I suppose that the formula has been changed without updating the website. The new formula has Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate (similar to SLS) as its main detergent, which is listed at the second place in the ingredient list right after water, I guess that is the reason why the other reviewer says it dries out skin, while most of the beneficial ingredients are listed after the preservatives, meaning that their amount is less significant. These changes do not necessarily mean that this is a bad cleanser but probably it is not gentle as before and not ideal for those who prefer the mildness of the old version like me. I wonder why Dr. Denese has changed the fabulous formula and how I wish she could have the old version back!!!!!!!!! Please!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Thank you for taking the time to write a review. Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate is not a preservative and isn't a drying agent. Like many surfactants, ammonium lauryl sulfate makes a good base for cleaners because of the way it disrupts hydrogen bonding in water. (It is hydrogen bonding that is the primary contributor to the high surface tension of water.) In aqueous (water-based) solutions, the lauryl sulfate anions and the ammonium cations dissociate from each other. Above the critical micelle concentration, the anions then align themselves into a micelle, in which they form a sphere with the polar, hydrophilic heads of the sulfate portion on the outside (surface) of the sphere and the nonpolar, hydrophobic tails pointing inwards towards the center. The water molecules around the micelle in turn arrange themselves around the polar heads, which disrupts their ability to hydrogen bond with other nearby water molecules. The overall effect of these micelles is a reduction in surface tension of the solution, which affords a greater ability to penetrate or "wet out" various surfaces, including porous structures like cloth, fibers, and hair. Accordingly, this allows the solution to more readily dissolve soils, greases, etc. in and on such substrates. In short, it dissolves grease and any dirt, grime or other particles that may be on your skin to cleanse your face.