Accutane: An extremely aggressive tretinoin-based product used as a last resort to heal cystic acne. It is highly effective, but it can cause severe birth defects in pregnant women. In very rare cases it can even cause depression..
Acetyl-1-carnitine: An antioxidant that promotes the health and rejuvenation of mitochondrial and membrane functions, combating the aging process.
Alpha-hydroxy Acids (AHA): A supercategory of anti-inflammatory, exfoliating acids (derived from fruit, milk, etc.) that includes glycolic, lactic, malic, and fruit acids.
Alphalipoic Acid: An important anti-aging antioxidant.
Amino Acids: Biochemical building blocks. They form long chemical chains Androgen hormones Any of the steroid hormones that develop and maintain masculine characteristics. Testosterone is one such hormone. A surge of these hormones in puberty or menopause often causes cystic acne by increasing the production of sebum.
Angulation: The angling or "cornering" of the skin on the neck.
Antioxidants: Chemicals that prevent and reverse the production of highly reactive free radicals, which can readily damage other molecules. The presence of antioxidants can "mop up" free radicals before they damage essential molecules.
Arbutin: A skin-fading chemical.
Argireline: An amino acid that relaxes and smoothes wrinkles. A topical alternative to Botox.
Beta-hydroxy acids (BHA): A group of exfoliating acids. The major one is salicylic acid.
Botox Botulinum Toxin: A muscle relaxant that, when injected directly into the muscles of the skin, can temporarily smooth wrinkle lines.
Botswella: An amino acid that relaxes and smoothes wrinkles. A topical alternative to Botox.
Capillaries: The smallest of the body's blood vessels. Capillaries have walls so thin that oxygen and glucose can pass through them and enter the cells, and waste products such as carbon dioxide can pass back into the blood to be taken out of the body.
Carnosine: An antioxidant within muscle tissue. It is composed of two amino acids joined by a peptide bond. An important ingredient in a skin-stimulating serum, it revitalizes and regenerates skin fibroblasts.
Cellular turnover: The rate at which cells die and are replaced by new ones.
Ceramide: A lipid (fat) identical in composition to the skin's natural lipid molecules. An effective ingredient in lipid-based moisturizing serums.
Chemical peel: The removal of layers of the skin via chemical means (i.e., using acids to slough off cells).
Collagen: The main protein in the connective tissues of the body. It is responsible for skin elasticity, and its degradation leads to wrinkles that accompany aging.
Comedones: These occur when excess sebaceous oil and dead skin cells combine to clog the hair follicle inside a pore. When a comedone breaks through the skin, it becomes a whitehead, blackhead, or pimple.
Cortisol: A hormone that promotes aging by causing muscle breakdown, uncontrollable midsection weight gain, and thinning of the skin.
Cystic acne: Inflamed, red pustular acne with a deep nodular base. It is the most severe form of acne and usually has a hormonal component—that is, it's often caused by a sudden surge of androgen hormones.
Deep peel: The deepest, most dramatic peel, which reaches far into the dermal skin layer to regenerate collagen. It can be chemical or mechanical, but laser peels offer the most control. Involves anesthesia and weeks, even months of recovery time, since the skin is literally burned off.
Dermabrasion: A procedure that uses a machine resembling a dentist's drill, which sands or buffs the top (dead) layer of skin, forcing collagen production and stimulating skin thickness. Aggressive use of sun block is required after the procedure, and the skin is sensitive and often swollen.
Dermis: The layer of skin underneath the epidermis. It contains a number of structures including blood vessels, nerves, hair follicles, smooth muscles, glands, and lymphatic tissue. It is made up of dense collagen and other fibers.
EFA Essential fatty acids: (such as linoleic acid) present in lipid-based serums that build up and moisturize the skin.
Enzymatic peel: A peel that uses enzymes to "eat away" at skin layers as a method of exfoliation.
Enzymes: Proteins that act as catalysts. They speed up the rate at which biochemical reactions proceed but don't alter the direction or nature of the reaction.
Epidermis: The outermost layer of the skin. It contains no blood vessels and is nourished by diffusion from the dermis.
Erbium laser: New laser technology that causes less heating and burning of tissues than other lasers used in skin resurfacing. In comparison to older, more conventional methods, it is less painful and has a shorter healing time.
Estrogen: The main sex hormone that regulates female reproductive processes and creates feminine secondary sexual characteristics. Depletion in estrogen can lead to thinning skin, loss of elasticity, and increasing lines.
Exfoliation: The process of sloughing off dead skin cells from the epidermis.
FDA (Food and Drug Administration): A branch of the U.S. federal government's Department of Health and Human Services. It is responsible for promoting and protecting the public health by ensuring that safe and healthy products get on the market and banning dangerous ones from importation and sale.
Fibroblasts: Cells that make up the structural fibers of connective tissue (i.e., collagen).
Free radicals: Uncharged atomic particles with unpaired electrons. These molecules are unstable and therefore highly reactive. They oxidize with the more stable chemicals of the body and compromise cellular functioning to promote aging. Antioxidants play a key role in the defense against free radicals.
Frequency-based laser rejuvenation: A type of laser treatment that uses radio-frequency waves to stimulate cellular turnover.
Fruit acid: A water-soluble antioxidant derived from various fruits (strawberries, tomatoes, apples, etc.) containing vitamin C. It aids in the production of collagen.
Glucagon: The natural antidote to insulin. It is a hormone that speeds up metabolism and reverses the aging effects of glycation. It cannot do so while high insulin levels are present, so it is important to keep the body's blood sugar levels down to allow glucagon to do its work.
Glycation: The process whereby excess sugar molecules link and compromise cellular particles (such as DNA and other proteins), causing a breakdown of functions and aging. Combated by keeping blood sugar levels low.
Glycolic acid: An alpha-hydroxy acid. It is an exfoliant and a collagen stimulant that is most effective when used in no less than 8 to 10 percent strength solution. When used as a peel, it must be neutralized to keep it from peeling deeper than intended. Usually used in combination with salicylic acid.
Green makeup: Covers up redness and irritation of the skin that can occur as a result of rosacea, telangiectasia, medium or deep peels, and any other skin-reddening condition.
Halogen light: A light source with a more efficient, longer-lasting filament than regular lightbulbs.
Human growth hormone (HGH): Sometimes called the master hormone of youth. HGH is secreted at night by the pituitary gland and is responsible for helping the body grow, repair itself, and maintain proper functioning. HGH injections help to increase metabolism, improve brain performance, repair all of the body's tissues, and generally improve well-being.
Hyaluronic acid: A peptide in skin-stimulating serums that also seals moisture in the skin. In addition, it is used as an injectable filler to reduce wrinkles on the face.
Hydroquinone: A drug that inhibits the manufacture of new pigment cells and can lighten dark spots and discolorations.
Hyperinsulinemia: Chronically elevated insulin levels.
Injectible fillers: Any of the variety of synthetic or natural substances that can be injected into the muscles of the face to reduce the look of lines and wrinkles.
Insulin: The hormone responsible for maintaining a proper balance of blood sugar in the body. It has profound pro-aging qualities. The degeneration of insulin receptors causes increased glycation and hastens aging.
Laser peel: A process that uses laser energy to burn off dead skin layers.
Linoleic acid: A lipid identical in composition to the skin's natural lipid molecules. An effective ingredient in lipid-based moisturizing serums.
Lipids: Fatty, waxy, or oily compounds that are characteristically insoluble in water but readily soluble in organic solvents. Lipids contain carbon, hydrogen, and oxygen.
Lipid-soluble: Dissolves in fats.
Lipofuscin: Toxic cellular material that accumulates and causes aging by compromising membrane functions.
Liposomes and liposomal delivery system: Liposomes are highly complex, microscopic lipid (fatty) spheres that encapsulate water and other ingredients. They are round shells of phospholipids, the basic components of human cell walls. Enclosing an ingredient within a liposome entraps it and keeps it fresh. Liposome encapsulation also improves an ingredient's concentration and duration at the target site, which can triple or quadruple its effectiveness. Liposomal delivery can bring any chemical into the body effectively and precisely, with the maximum results.
Macrodermabrasion: A procedure of mechanical exfoliation of the outer layers of skin using negative (vacuum) pressure. This old technology often employs abrasive aluminum oxide and tends to require a lengthy recovery time.
Marionette lines: Wrinkle lines that run down from the corners of the mouth.
Mechanical peel: A procedure that uses a rnicrodermabrasion machine, which emits a fine spray of crystals, salt, or aluminum particles to polish away old skin cells.
Medium peel: An exfoliation procedure that goes deep enough to affect both the epidermal and dermal skin layers. Can be done chemically, with light dermabrasion or with a laser. Administered under anesthesia and requires about a week of recovery time. It should only be administered by a medical doctor.
Melanin: A pigment in the skin, hair, and eyes. Melanin protects the skin from damage by ultraviolet (UV) light and is the pigment produced in response to damage by the sun, causing skin to tan (to protect itself against further damage). In albino mammals, melanin is the pigment that is missing from their bodies.
Melanocytes: Pigment cells that swarm into an area of recent acne inflammation and bring pigment to the skin, often leaving a persistent dark spot.
Melasma: Large, amorphous, dark discolorations on the skin.
Microdermabrasion: The removal of dead skin cells by exfoliating with a granular substance.
Mitochondria: The power plant of cells, which, if compromised by any of the numerous aging factors, can break down, leading to cellular damage.
Nasolabial folds: Embedded wrinkle lines that run from the nose to the mouth.
Nonablative lasers: Lasers that heat the dermis without causing open wounds to the epidermis, thereby minimizing recovery time.
Noncomedogenic: Products that do not clog hair follicles and, in turn, create comedones.
Obagi System: Developed by Zein Obagi, a Middle Eastern doctor, this harsh mix of Retin A/hydroquinone successfully fades skin discolorations but causes extreme irritation and peeling for the first several weeks.
Pearline: An injectable filler in the hyaluronic acid family currently on the market. Can remain in the face for up to one year.
Peels: Chemical, mechanical, and laser procedures that remove layers of skin to various depths to promote skin thickness and rejuvenation.
Peptides: Any of a class of molecules that make up chains of amino acids and form the building blocks of proteins.
Petrolatum: A mineral oil. Found in traditional creams, it is ineffective and can cause clogged pores, since it does not have a molecular makeup identical to that of natural skin lipids.
pH balance: Percentage of hydrogen balance. Refers to the balance of a product's acidity or alkalinity. Healthy skin is slightly acidic to ward off infections. To preserve pH balance, cosmetics products should be slightly acidic as well.
Phytosphyngosine: An anti-inflammatory, nonsteroidal agent that decreases the inflammation and swelling of acne without thinning the skin. Pores Openings in the skin that produce sebaceous oil, which lubricates and moisturizes the skin as well as acidifying it to maintain proper pH balance and protect it against bacteria. Pores enlarge to accommodate a higher output of sebaceous oil (usually during puberty or due to heightened sun exposure).
Porphyrins: A chemical released by the skin bacteria Propionobacterium acnes, which causes acne.
Portculaca: An amino acid that relaxes and smoothes wrinkles. A topical alternative to Botox.
Pregnenolone: An antioxidant that supports mitochondrial functions.
Prolactin: A hormone that increases with age and promotes weight gain.
Propionobacterium acnes: Otherwise known as P. acnes, it is the bacteria that reside on the surface of the skin, and when they settle into clogged pores, cause acne.
Proteins: The "machines" of the cell, proteins are made up of long chains of amino acids.
Pustules: Elevated lesions on the skin that contain pus (the major component of acne).
Radio-frequency laser peel: A laser procedure that stimulates the skin at a deeper level, bypassing the epidermis and minimizing recovery time.
RDA: Recommended Dietary Allowance of a nutrient is the amount Americans are advised to consume daily by the Institute of Medicine of the American Academy of Arts and Sciences.
Restyline: An FDA-approved hyaluronic filler used to fill facial lines and wrinkles.
Resveratrol: An antioxidant in red grapes that combats the aging effects of cell oxidation by free radicals.
Retin A/Renova: Types of tretinoin products often prescribed to cure acne-plagued skin.
Retinol: The most potent form of vitamin A. A lipid-soluble vitamin found in medications such as Accutane, it reduces the secretion of oils from glands.
Rosacea: A chronic and progressive skin disease that causes redness and swelling of the face. It sometimes includes acnelike pustules.
Salicylic acid: An oil-soluble beta-hydroxy acid in aspirin and topical skin-care products. It is safe to use because it stops working two to three minutes after application.
Sebaceous glands: In the hair follicles, these glands secrete sebum, an oily substance that keeps skin from drying out.
Sebum: Semifluid secretions from sebaceous glands that collect in pores, causing blockages, irritation (which often leads to acne), and enlarged pores.
Serum: A water-based product that is the best way to transfer collagen-building materials into the skin as part of the skin-stimulating phase. The main ingredient is water; other important ingredients are carnosine, resvera-trol, bioactive oligopeptides, copper, vitamin C, and vitamin B complex. Skin lipid barrier A layer of fat molecules under the skin's surface that keeps moisture in the skin. A breakdown of this layer of fats causes skin to be increasingly dry.
SPF: Sun protection factor. SPF is essential to protect the skin from severe aging effects of sun exposure. SPF 15 is the least that should be applied, but SPF 30 is recommended.
Spironolactone: A steroid used medically as a diuretic that prevents excessive oil production by blocking androgen receptors and decreasing androgen production in both the ovaries and adrenal glands.
Strabismus: The misalignment of the eye usually referred to as "cross-eye." Subcutaneous Under the skin.
Superficial/light peel: A procedure that removes the top layer of the skin, the epidermis, either with microdermabrasion, glycolic or salycilic acids, or laser. It involves no recovery time and is sometimes called "the lunchtime peel."
Telangiectasia: A condition in which red capillaries become increasingly more visible through thinning skin. Affects mostly fair-skinned people. Lasers provide the most effective treatment—they heat the blood vessel, which then coagulates and gets absorbed into the body.
Telomeres: Sequences of nucleic acids extending from the ends of chromosomes (like caps). These caps shorten every time a cell divides, which is believed to lead to cellular damage. Each time a cell divides, it duplicates itself a little less perfectly than the time before, eventually leading to cellular dysfunction and aging. Telomerese is the enzyme that can prevent this shortening.
Tendons: Cords of fibrous tissue at the end of a muscle that attach the muscle to bone.
Toner: An acidic liquid used to wipe the skin after cleansing, to pick up any dirt or makeup traces the cleanser may have missed.
Topical: Applied to the skin; not ingested.
Tretinoin: An antibiotic that regulates sebaceous release and exfoliates the skin. Some examples are Retin A, Differin, and Accutane.
Triglycerides: Tiny particles that comprise body fat and that are predictive of heart disease.
T-zone: The area of the forehead, nose, and chin that tends to collect/ secrete the most sebaceous oil.
UVA/UVB Ultraviolet rays: Electromagnetic radiation emitted by the sun and some halogen light with wavelengths between 200 nanometers and 400 nanometers. Exposure to excessive UV radiation damages DNA and can cause health problems such as skin cancer.
Veins: Blood vessels that carry blood to the heart from other parts of the body.
Water-soluble: Dissolves in water.
Zinc oxide: A sunscreen that provides the broadest spectrum of protection against harmful UVA/UVB rays.